Kontamination

2007-07-08T23:06:00.000-07:00

For some reason blogger won't let me type in a title for this post...which is fine anyway, as I was sitting in the tub wondering what to call it. Probably Famous Places Famous People or something like that.

We're back now - got back two days ago actually but have been laying low, dealing with jet lag, mail and laundry.

"How was your trip?" people ask, and I always answer..."great!" and it was, because from lost luggage, a police chase, and being swindled out of money by a gypsy to spending time with Konrad's family and some of our old friends, discovering new cities and new stories, and celebrating our marriage, the near month in Europe was a wonderful mix of a lot of ups and just a few downs.

Tonight's post, though, is about Famous People and Famous Places.

I got to visit the wall for the first time. You know the one...THE Wall. Symbol of the Cold War, the divide between East and West Berlin for 28 years, the one that fell in 1989. I had always wondered about the wall. The images of the night it was torn down have stayed with me in my mental video library, like those of the space shuttle Challenger disaster, the LA/Rodney King riots, and other monumental occasions.

This is what is left of the wall today. It is protected from people who would chip away at it for souvenirs.The wall came down in November 1989, but the last person to be shot for trying to cross it was killed in February 1989. Isn't that incredible?

When the wall fell, people danced at the Brandenburg Gate. Commissioned by Friederich Wilhelm II as a sign of peace and built by Carl Gotthard Langhans from 1788 to 1791 (thanks, Wikipedia!), the Gate was much later used by Nazis to symbolize their power. It was closed in 1961 when the Berlin Wall was built, and re-opened in December 1989.Here I am in front of it.This area has a really nice hotel that we had a beer at the first evening we were in Berlin. Waiting for and wondering about our luggage and nursing a hangover caused by jet lag and not alcohol, we sat and sipped a glass of beer while we people-watched.

This was the lovely hotel.Imagine my delight the next day when a woman told me that it was from a balcony in this very hotel that Michael Jackson dangled his baby!

I love crazy stuff like that.

There was the amphitheatre in Pula, which I showed you before. This was famous to me not because it was ancient and one of six Roman amphitheatres left in the world, but because there's a little boutique in Gastown called City of Pula that I got a FABULOUS coat at the winter before last, and their logo is this structure. Apparently the shop is closing though - oh no!!! Anyway, here's the amphitheatre again for your viewing pleasure.

We also visited Lake Como, you know the one, right? George Clooney has a villa there...we stayed in Varenna, not his town of Laglio (it's not on the map but it's near Cernobbio), and it was absolutely wonderful.
The villa we stayed in. Ours was the white balcony at the top middle.

Then there was Alpe d'Huez. This town is on the Tour de France route, and was the site of an episode of the television show Glutton for Punishment, that I worked on. I had wanted to see it since researching it and getting to know it and its legend through the work.

Konrad LOVES biking so this was a thrill for him too - as it also was to follow a Discovery Team rider down the hill...video of that to come.

And finally, Chamonix. This town, nestled at the base of Mont Blanc, has carried a near-mythical status in my mind. I have thought of it like Aspen, Val d'Isere and Kitzbuhel, a place where the fabulous go to ski. Konrad had a poster of it in his apartment in Edmonton, that I examined as often as I could. I love mountains as much as he does, maybe for different reasons, i.e. not to climb and ski them, but to sit and admire their beauty. Chamonix as a town and Mont Blanc as a mountain did not disappoint. I spent a lovely day in the town when K and Kalle and Lesel went hucking mountain bikes!I want to post more pics and write the stories of our experiences in the places we visited, but I think each deserves its own post. I am busy looking for work, catching up on tasks, etc. but as the days go on I will try to tell those stories.

As always, stay tuned!

My dolce vita

2007-07-01T04:54:00.000-07:00

For someone like me: curious, observant, hopeful and thankful, I truly believe that the most valuable lessons to learn from Europe are not in a history book or a museum tour.

When I see a crumbling castle perched high on a hill as we zoom by on the autopista or I arrive in an small ancient village or a large old city that has stood for centuries, sometimes battered and bruised through raging wars but solid through it all, or rebuilt with hope, or miraculously spared any damage, I am filled equally with wonder, with horror, and with energy.

What armies marched these cobblestone streets, who sought refuge in bombed-out churches, who lived and loved and died behind these walls?

To me, la dolce vita is not only the good life but the life well-lived, worn around the edges with a little wear and tear…so in my eyes a door that has peeling paint is infinitely more beautiful than one that is pristine with its fresh coat every summer.

The lessons that the dirty statue, the crumbling wall and the peeling door teach me are the most valuable…stop, look, wonder and ponder. What happened to it to bring it to that point? Why was it still standing after all this time? Strength, conviction, gratitude and love can get you through anything. Be curious, ask questions, look for the truth. Go beyond spouting the cliché and actually live life to the fullest, and above all - don’t be embarrassed to let it show - on a door, on a statue, on a face.

Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, Berlin.This church was bombed during WWII. Instead of repairing or destroying it, Germans kept it as a reminder of the war.

Konrad's aunt and uncle Jan and Ela walking...

Budapest centre.

Pula, Croatia. Pula Amphitheatre, sixth largest Roman amphitheater in the world. Built in the reign of emperor Vespasian, it seated 23,000 spectators.

Varenna, Lake Como, Italy. The door leading to the balcony at our villa on Lake Como.

Castle on a hilltop - one of countless we have seen...

Grenoble, France.

Zywiec, Poland. Ice cream with Babcia.

Varenna, Lake Como, Italy. Both grinning ear-to-ear and so happy to be there.

Messner Mountain Museum, Monte Rite, Italy.

An eventful drive – Warsaw to Zywiec

2007-06-26T12:40:00.000-07:00

When traveling across Europe I am always delighted by the difference from one country to another. Coming from Canada, I think it can be said that you could blindfold me and drop me anywhere in the country and without looking at a sign, it would take me a good long while to figure out where I was. Here, with each border crossing, we enter into a new and uniquely identifiable world.

Each country’s attractions are unique and some are even legendary. Italy has its pasta and piazzas, while France is all about the bicycle and the baguette. In my opinion and experience, Poland could be said to be about the customs and the controls.

I had heard about the Polish police before. Being with a Polish-born partner who is a natural storyteller, and spending a lot of time with his family, I got to know certain things about the country. So when we were pulled over by the police (or should I say chased by the police) on a Poland highway, I suspected we might be in a bit of trouble.

We hadn’t seen the cop car until we got quite near it on a heavily trafficked, fast highway, and when the policeman ran out and waved his “lizak” (literally translated to “lollipop”), a glorified table tennis paddle, I turned to Konrad and said, “Do you think that was for us?” as we drove on down the highway. As the two cops jumped in their car and gave chase, sirens blaring and lights flashing, that question was quickly answered for us.

I will let Konrad take it from here so he can complete the story.

There were a couple of reasons I did not stop. One (which I immediately rehearsed in my mind in case of a stop) was that there was a speeding TIR (semi-truck) in the lane next to us and it would have not been safe to stop, as I would have had to cut in front of him and slam on the brakes.

The other reason, and the one that had actually taken primary residence in my mind as I pressed on the accelerator, was that I was hoping for the laziness of the Polish Policja. Their ineptness was almost legendary in Socialist times, and although much has changed since, I hoped they would just “let it go”, especially as corruption was on a sharp decline over the last couple of years, thus leaving personal gain out of it. Polish Police used to take bribes almost exclusively when I last visited, and since I seem to get stopped every time I cross the border I always seem to know what state we Poles are at when I visit.

Just the night before I asked my cousin Wacek about the bribes, and he sharply reported that it was definitely not something to try anymore as it could land you into some really serious trouble. I had this firmly in my mind as I eased the car over to the shoulder with the cop car in hot pursuit.

In the next few moments a few “un-pleasantries” were exchanged – “Kurwa mac!!” (“WTF??”) with a hand on gun and holster clip unbuckled, some rough language about having to speed 220 km/h to catch us and an escort (for me, leaving Tam alone in the car wondering WTF on her own) to the back of the cop car.

With everyone’s nerves on edge we entered into uncharted New Polish Police territory for me. First, there was the opening salvo from the head driver about taking my drivers license away and towing the car, no other options, period. This seemed like an overreaction to me, thus I politely and very nervously protested.

Then, there was an accusation that I was not allowed to drive the car with my Canadian license and would get an extra ticket for that. I actually knew this part was B.S. and with this indication that not much had changed in Polish police scare tactics, I relaxed a bit about the previous license loss comment.

Then came the grave and serious discussion about not stopping when they waved me down. This I thought was an easy one and within a few minutes I was able to tie in my Canadian license and the customs of Canada whereby the police lacked the distinctive “lizak” as a sign of stopping. The whole scenario of not stopping was thus turned more into an inconvenience than breaking the law.

At this moment, I was able to relax a little; one of the most important things in dealing with the Polish police was to make it clear that of course I understand I’ve caused them some inconvenience but there surely must be something we can do to work it out.

Next came what probably illustrated my strongest suit. It is not only what makes me a Pole to the core, but also defines my region and my people. I am speaking of the carefully honed skill of coming to an agreement over price – negotiation. This was something that I have been taught since just out of the crib, and it is an activity that is just simply in any Eastern European’s blood.

Certainly, I knew this would take a while as I heard Wacek’s words echoing in my mind, thus I approached carefully, treading lightly. Probably ten minutes passed. There was a lot of conversation like “No co my z panem zrobimy?”, or, “What are we going to do with you, Sir?”. To which I continuously replied, “Moze jednak sie dac cos zrobic.” This means, “Maybe there is something we could do.”

I knew at that point, it was just about money.

Long story short, I left them 270 zloty (about $100 CND) on the back seat and took away sincere thanks from them for understanding. They also sent us off with warnings of three more speed traps ahead and told me not to say anything to anyone. When I left the police car, I jokingly said, “I already don’t remember you.” They chuckled, and said “neither do we.”

All in all, a pretty good deal. I walked shakily to the car and we sped off into the distance half laughing but mostly with great relief. Later that night I called Wacek and assured him not much has changed, it only cost more now and you have to dance around a little more. Some things even EU membership can’t change.

we're alive and well!

2007-06-26T00:55:00.000-07:00

Hello from Cortina D'Ampezzo! We've had a whirlwine trip so far with stops in Berlin, Warsaw, Zywiec, Budapest, Pula, Valun and now Cortina D'Ampezzo. I had counted on a lot more internet access, but it's not easy to get connected here.

Stay tuned for stories from our trip then...but maybe when we get home! Or, as we can post here. We have about 10 more days of Europe fun!

We might stay another night here and then make our way to Lake Como, and we still have to visit Grenoble, Fontainebleu, Chamonix, the Nurburgring, and maybe even Angela in Baden Baden...loads to see and do!

We have lift-off!

2007-06-16T01:16:00.001-07:00

Well, we have clothing. And toiletries. And luggage!! Happy happy.

Hello from Warsaw, longer post to come.

T&K

Berlin - Ze wall is not down

2007-06-14T23:52:00.000-07:00

On this auspicious occasion, our first missive back from the road, we seriously wracked our brains at how to even begin to tell you what we have discovered. Because… if you have been introduced to the world of Kontamination you’ll know, we always make incredible discoveries, and we always have a story. This time we do not disappoint.

We have to report from Berlin: The wall is not down.

Back in the day, the divide meant that folks in the West enjoyed more amenities of than those in the East. Well, while our hotel address says West Berlin, we feel like we’re on the other side.

As I sit here on the bed of our hotel in Berlin wearing the only dry item of clothing I currently am in possession of (my undies), having washed everything in the sink last night, Konrad has fit a sock over the end of the hair dryer in the washroom and is blowing air into the foot to dry it.

Is it obvious yet? Lufthansa has misplaced our luggage, and we are here with nothing but the clothing on our backs and our camera bag. (Carefully packed with laptop, three cameras, cords…everything but spare pairs of contact lenses and a change of clothing. We’re nothing if not storytellers…)

We were both issued “care packages” from Lufthansa with standard issue XXXL white t-shirts and “all the toiletries you will need until we find your luggage”. (I put that in quotation marks for a reason…)

They assure us that usually bags are found within the first 48 hours but processing may take up to 5 days. We are certainly not on the same wavelength here: they assure us that our items will be returned sometime, we could not care less as long as we get them this trip. Five days seems like an eternity when you have a care-free vacation plan with no planned (or booked) stops and have no idea where we end up. This is the second time in Europe we’ve been tied to someone else in terms of a timeline. Two years ago our rental camper van broke down and we spend days on the phone trying to get it fixed.

I guess in normal circumstances it is just business, things happen in terms of “this week” or “next week”, but as our vacations in adult life have taken on almost a mythical meaning making them more dear than money, possessions and the general value of things they tick away the most precious thing of all: time.

In the end it’s good to know what is important – simply, vision. If we didn’t have our glasses on, we would literally be lost.

And we're off!

2007-06-13T07:56:00.000-07:00

Check back here for updates as we go along!

and we're.......(not) off...

2006-09-05T13:23:00.000-07:00

We were due out of Montreal, well, some time ago. Dunno when, but we're still here. There was a problem with Air Canada Jazz's computer and telephone system, so the flight to Ottawa (and then from Ottawa to Edmonton) was cancelled.

We thought we might grab a bus shuttle to Ottawa or even rent a car but then Konrad worked his magic, and we're now sitting in the Air Canada lounge, waiting to fly out in first class. Woo hoo!

I have always sat outside in the regular waiting area with the sweaty masses and crying babies. It's my first time in the lounge...and I like it a lot. It's 4:20pm and we're enjoying a nice glass of red wine. I love the "good life".

:-)

Venturing into Vermont

2006-09-04T06:39:00.000-07:00

We ventured into Vermont yesterday and must say - we love it!! Very friendly Customs guy at the border (we actually felt welcomed! wow!), beautiful rolling hills with forests just now starting to slightly take on the colours of fall, a wine tasting...it was really a great day. Here are a few pics from our road trip!

Vermont features hundreds of covered bridges, here was the only one we saw though.

This is what Vermont is like - green green green!

Fields and fields of green.

Had we more time, we might have gone to New York!

Hmmm. Not many pics in this. Time to shower up and enjoy our last day here! More pics when we return.

Snapshots of Old Montreal

2006-09-01T11:54:00.000-07:00

je me souviens

2006-08-31T13:53:00.000-07:00

There's something to be admired about French Canadians - okay, it's a little harsh to think that they feel so unwelcome in (or superior in) their own country that they'd like to separate, but the "je me souviens" on their license plates acts as a constant reminder that they will not forget. Forget what? All the wrongs done? Their history and place in a changing and Anglo Canada? I certainly do not purport to know, or understand. Someone more well-informed can share that with me some day...but I dare not ask here!

Wikipedia has this to say about the saying, found on license plates as well as the Coat of Arms of Quebec, both fashioned by French Canadian architect Eugène-Étienne Taché...

"Even though Taché didn't explicitly explain the meaning of the "Je me souviens", his intention was most probably an invitation to remember the province's historical roots, more specifically "I remember what the English did to the French"."

Whatever it is, Konrad and I have adopted a harsh, low, threatening whisper to say the "je me souviens" we see drive by on all cars.

In a smooth segue, let me say that we definitely will remember this fun and beautiful place. Here are some pictures for your enjoyment, too.

The street our hotel is on is Rue St-Sulpice, which is handy seeing as we're staying at the Le Saint Sulpice Hotel.

The hotel is right behind the Notre Dam Cathedral...we haven't been to visit it yet but will tonight or tomorrow.

The lights are amazing at night - the Cathedral has a light show and the street lights make Vieux-Montreal very romantic. The pic below was taken at dusk, on our way to dinner.

Hmmm...having trouble uploading pics...will have to try later again. Why does blogger do this?? Only lets me upload a few and then they don't show up...want to share some of Mr. K, and more Montreal~

An engaging drive...

2006-08-27T18:54:00.000-07:00

After much discussion and negotiation as well as an honest look at finances and a nod to recent career opportunities, Konrad and I decided that we would forego the much talked of month-long trip to Paris for a trip home for a family wedding, and then a quick jaunt to Montreal.

We have both had the sort of month where you feel like you're a damp rag, recently put through the wash and wringer, and while you should have been thrown in the dryer or at least laid out on a sun-drenched clothesline, you were just dropped on the floor in haste and left there to half dry, half rot.

We decided we'd drive home rather than fly - we both enjoy road trips and 12 hours in the car with only each other and good music as companions, would give us time to chill out, come down from the talk of promotions and salary and titles and office space, and reconnect.

And my, oh my...did we ever reconnect.

The distance from Vancouver to Edmonton is about 1244 km and Mt. Robson has always been a stopping point for us, whether Edmonton or Vancouver is our destination. I've never seen the mountain though, as it's always been too clouded over or stormy up top. The wonderful and majestic mountain is, at 3,954 metres, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies.

As we approached, but still could not see it as it was around another bend or two, Konrad grew more and more excited. There's a special place in his heart for this mountain...there are for many mountains but he has a fascination with and reverence for Robson, and has spent time up close and personal with it, having climbed on it with his climbing partner and best friend Kalle.

He guessed that it was going to be clear and we would get to see the entire mountain. Konrad was positively gleeful! "I haven't seen it in 10 years!" he said. "This is a rare day..."

Glad to get out of the car after six or more hours of chatting, listening to Jack Johnson, and gripping the "holy shit" handles when Konrad accelerated to 160km to pass lines of vehicles, I stiffly walked to the grassy area at the base of the mountain, gingerly working out all of the kinks.

Konrad couldn't get over how beautiful it was, how rare it was, and how lucky we were to be here on this clear day. He snapped a few pictures, sat down on the grass, and asked me if I wanted to join him.

I carefully considered all of my options and I, wearing a black skirt, must have had a concerned look on my face to sit on the grass and flowers because Konrad gallantly removed his outer t-shirt and laid it on the ground for me. What a gent.

I sat down beside him, and enjoyed his lesson about how best to climb this beast - which approach to take and why, where the hut is, where he and Kalle made it to, and then we carefully scanned for anyone on the mountain right then. He also reminded me that the first man to climb this mountain was also named Konrad...Conrad Kain.

I thought this was all very well and good, and a perfectly pleasant warm and sunny afternoon. As we sat on the grass, smelling the chamomile and sweet clover flowers (K picked me a teeny tiny bouquet), Konrad said he wished he could take a picture of the mountain and send it to Kalle. He asked me if I had my cell phone (with its camera) with me, and I said no, it was in the car.

He exhaled as if slightly put out that he had to return to the car to get it and said okay, he'd be right back.

I sat, contemplating the mountain in all its glory, the strength of the late summer sun, the flies, the flowers, and life.

When Konrad got back to me, he knelt behind me and asked me how to take a picture with my phone. He handed it around to the front of me, and I said I'd have to erase some pictures first as I was sure it was full.

As I fiddled with the phone, he laid on the grass beside me. I was intent on making space and wasn't even really aware of what he was doing, or paying any attention to him really. Then, in a slightly shaky and nervous voice, he said...

"Tamara, will you marry me?"

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I remember it this way...Konrad might have a different recollection as, upon sharing later, we agreed that at that instant, we were both enveloped individually in bubbles, with a larger one around us shutting us out from the rest of the world.

I remember pausing, trying to catch...something...my breath, my thoughts...and then I remember saying, almost inquisitively, "Yes??" and then, "Are you really asking me??"

When he smiled, and said yes with his kind and eager expression, I melted. We wrapped our arms around each other, and while it didn't escape me that he had a small bamboo box in his hands, now around my back, I was too busy in the moment to even wonder (yet) what was in it.

I was stunned. I was, weirdly, emotionless. I held on for dear life, thinking, I should be weeping with joy...so I pulled back, looked at him and I don't remember exactly what the words were, but at the time I needed to make sure that he really WAS ready, really WAS asking me, that it was all really happening.

When I was assured, and sure, then I melted for real, and had a small sob into his neck.

THEN I wondered what was in the box that had found its way into my hands...

I mean, we had looked at rings and I had, against my better judgement, set my heart on one in particular. It was the ring that was an absolutely perfect symbol of Konrad and Tamara...a perfect piece that balanced strong and delicate, and fit my finger and my personality like it was made just for me.

Did I dare hope that it was this ring that was in the box? Probably, deep inside...but I wasn't really even thinking at that moment.

I looked down at the box, and carefully opened it up just a bit. I quickly snapped it shut and with wide eyes and mouth agape, stared at Konrad. I am not sure if I said anything - if I did, it was likely, "NOOOOOOOO!" but certainly NOT as in, "no I don't want this"...rather, "no, I can't believe this!!!"

In it lay my perfect ring, but it was even more perfect than before.

As Konrad took it out of its box he explained to me that designed it with a very personal and meaningful symbol inside. I wish I could describe it well, and blogger isn't letting me upload pics right now...I will do my best. The ring features a channel set Canadian diamond and the diamond is held on two sides, and otherwise exposed. The bottom of it is clear to see...the sharp point fully on view.

Drawing inspiration from the pyramids at the Louvre...in my favourite city, Konrad had the jeweler insert a tiny diamond with its point up, just about to meet the point of the bottom of the large diamond. He explained that it was like an iceberg - what you see on the surface is just the tip; that it was a sign of bigger and better things to come, together.

I love the sound of that...bigger and better...together.

It has been a few days now, and I have had time to get used to the weight of the ring on my finger, and the idea that we left boyfriend and girlfriend at Mt. Robson and we're now on our way to husband and wife.

I honestly couldn't be happier...

PS I will try to get the pictures up tonight...

Kontamination world tour 2006!

2006-07-04T22:36:00.000-07:00

I can't believe that last year, on this very day, we were making our way from Paris to Dusseldorf. I have meant to post pictures from our trip, I really have...but those who wanted to see them were invited (and still are) to write to ask for a link to our online photo album.

We looked at it over the weekend and went back in our minds to that great trip.

We were trying to figure out a way to recreate it this year - we thought we might go to Paris for 3 or 4 weeks to see what it would be like to really live there, as we're seriously contemplating that move at some point.

Then we thought, well we can't go there and not go to see Babcia, Jan and Ella in Poland. And then Kalle and Lesel in their new home in Finland. Suddenly another epic journey lay itself out in our minds...

We have since then decided to forego Europe for this year and go to MONTREAL!!!

We go in the end of August through beginning of September, and will of course be letting you know all about it through this, our online trip journal.

Of course the trips since we returned from Europe have been interesting as well - many to Home Depot since buying our condo, and lots back and forth from San Francisco to Vancouver. But you know all about that already.

Photos to share soon

2005-07-07T17:24:00.000-07:00

I am enticing you with yet another one here that is from our travels to get people's curiosity aroused...I am continuing on the uploading task and will have it completed soon. Then Konrad (who has returned to San Francisco) will go through and edit my choices as I am erring on the side of uploading a whole lot of them, and then we'll add captions to better tell the stories.

Here's a great one I took of Konrad in a little wee town near Montalcino, where we had the best pasta ever. Of our lives, I mean. Like, ever ever ever. Mmmm.

We're baaaack!

2005-07-06T21:05:00.000-07:00

As I write this I can barely focus. I am not sure how long I have been awake, but since 8am Germany time, and it's now 9pm Vancouver time. Zzzz.

Konrad has been sawing logs upstairs for a few hours already, but I wanted to make sure I was good and sleepy to try to help get back into this schedule. I thought I would go through our photos (awesome) and find the best to upload to ofoto.

Either the site isn't working well or my wits aren't, but it has confounded me to the point of near-stupor.

Until tomorrow, then. Here's a sampling. The Kontamination Europe Tour's stop in Prague.

The long and winding road...

2005-07-05T03:29:00.000-07:00

...is winding down!

We are back in Dusseldorf after an amazing journey of nearly 6500 km across several countries, different landscapes and people, food and architecture.

What a trip!!

We were talking yesterday when we were 20km out of Dusseldorf about how quickly the time has passed, yet what a weird time warp thing has happened. It feels like a year ago that we were in Zywiec or Prague. Konrad commented that it feels the same as remembering back to our last trip to Tofino. I agreed, but we also noted that when we look through the photos when we get home, it will bring it all back.

One of our first tasks for our jet lagged first day back upon our return, besides doing tons of laundry, will be to upload the best of our photos to ofoto.com, so if you are interested please send me your e-mail info and I wll send you an invitation to see them...all friends and family will automatically get this invite.

After experiencing so many countries, we have concluded that we indeed left the best for last and have decided that Paris is our favourite city. We have also decided (my poor family who already does not get to see me enough will love this one) that we will have to live there one day. Or, return a lot...

We did not get enough of a chance to explore the city in any great detail because we only had one real solid day, but we both absolutely fell in love.

We had a few hours battling the crowds at the Louvre, and indeed got to see the Mona Lisa...through the crowds and rows of cameras flashing. I did not even bother to get up close and personal with her, because it was so sticky and hot in the museum, and the hordes of people crowding around were giving me the claustrophobic heeby jeebies. You will see that in the photo!

We did stroll the Champs Elysees, but by that time were so exhausted that strolling was virtually impossible. I sort of limped the Champs Elysees!

Then we spent FOREVER in lineups for the Eiffel Tower but did make it to the top...and while the view was lovely, we decided we would really never do that again. Romantic-- not exactly. Not unless you think spending a few hours in lineups with thousands of strangers jostling for space, is romantic.

After our first evening there when we just checked into the campground, our full day of exploring, and then following morning in Paris over breakfast (having what is definitely the best omelette in the history of the world), we have decided that at least a solid month in Paris with daily sojourns of discovery might leave us satisfied...but it might not.

The outer perimeter of the city is completely covered in graffiti (is that spelled right?) but then as you make your way inward from the Peripherique (a ring road circling the city proper), things just start to get cleaner and more beautiful. Jaw-dropping art and architecture is an absolute feast for the eyes.

Don't get the impression that I didn't see the bad, either, for I did. The subway system smells like urine, the crowds are crazy, and the French can certainly have an attitude. But altogether, it is somewhere we would enjoy very much. I cannot wait to show the photos!

We are cleaning and returning the van today and then spending a day in Dusseldorf, which is really quite nice. It is already 1pm so that won't be a full day, but we were in the old city area last night and will return there to explore later. Then, we have to concern ourselves with flying out tomorrow and returning home to do battle with jet lag once more.

Hope you are all well...over and out until we get home.

Thank you for accompaying us on our trip, and we hope you enjoyed your time on the Kontamination Europe tour 2005!!

Love Tam and Konrad

Bonjour from France!

2005-06-30T12:55:00.000-07:00

Somewhere between Nice and Cannes on the Cote D`Azur...on yet another wonky keyboard so please excuse funny words and punctuation! Instead of a comma (which the French do not seem to use); I will have to use a semi-colon. (Imagine my horror.) (Quelle horreur?)

I am aware tonight as we have spent the day in Monaco and Nice; in the truly azure waters of the French Riviera; that what we are doing may seem sophisticated and adventurous to some and a full-on pain in the ass to others. The reality for us is somewhere smack dab in the middle.

Language barriers have not presented a problem; people have been quite friendly and the scenery is usually stunning...but the bugs are having a difficult time finding an untouched patch of skin between us and good sleep alludes the both of us in the VW camper van in the heat. We are taking to sleeping separately tonight - one up; one down in an effort to get some rest.

We have been incredibly fortunate to spend time in places like Zywiec and Prague as well as our recent stay in Montalcino and eating agreeably the best pasta of our lives in a little village nearby; but we have also seen pollution so thick it obscures the view of mountains and has us debating over whether it is smog or fog.

We have also agreed on several guiding principles about travelling for such long time over such large distances; the most important of which is - we must bring a scooter with us next time. This would enable us to be mobile along with the great armies of scooter and bike riders in the large, (lo and behold, there is the comma) crowded and heavily trafficked cities that we have had to just drive through and leave unexplored.

RV or van camping in the countryside alone is great and does not present such issues. Mobility has been our biggest concern - we have our accommodations and transportation together and while it is great and convenient, I personally do have sort of special needs. Parking the van in a secured parking lot and exploring all day on foot simply is not possible for my old Arthritic bones.
A scooter would afford us the luxury of accessibility to go around cities that we have been forced to just drive on through this time around.

We agree that despite our earlier issues with the van, we would do it this way again. The convenience of having your household with you outweighs the luxury of a hotel or B and B, and perhaps even a bathtub, though I did comment today that I would give my left breast for a bath...a slight exaggeration.

We also agree that we needed an up-to-date RV/camping Europe book - we did have one that came with the van but are planning on writing a letter to the authors about how poor the information is.

What else would we do differently? Possibly a shorter route but, we are not people who like to sit on a hot beach for hours and even days, and like seeing and doing a lot, so it has really worked for us.

All in all, the places we have been and the sights we have seen are something I personally had only ever read about in a book or web page. The reality of being here, sampling the local culture and cuisine, seeing the architecture, and yes driving the roads, have so far given me the adventure of a lifetime.

And even better, the adventure is not over...tomorrow we will rent a scooter in the morning and check out Nice or Cannes and then return to the van and leave for the French countryside to make our way up to Paris and Versailles.

Hope you are all well and our love to you all...(would like to end more enthusiastically but seem to have lost the exclamation point...)

I cannot seem to log on to my creativequeen.com e-mail tonight but hopefully can in the morning. Until then, I bid you adieu.

P.S. We would love to see more messages from readers so please comment

One more night in Tuscany...

2005-06-28T08:24:00.000-07:00

When we last wrote an update, we had arrived in the lovely little town of Montalcino...of course that was just some 24 hours ago but to tell the truth, we pack a lot in to these days and they end up feeling like a few days at least.

Last night was great fun, fuelled by (perhaps too much for me!) wine.

We retired to our little apartment, which I am totally in love with, and had a wee rest. We then got some books, the map of France, two bottles of wine and a bottle of beer, and went out to the little garden patio out back. We spread out the map and planned the remainder of our trip (of course having discovered that we have BARELY ANY TIME left!!

We started out with some amber wine-liqueur thing that was a bit too sweet or liquery so we moved on to the white, and chilled out. When the wine and beer was done, we decided it was time for a stroll down the cobblestone street to a restaurant for dinner. Only then did I realize that I had already had too much to drink, and the rest of the evening is pretty much a blur for me.

Hee hee.

We had what I am sure was a great dinner...Konrad had noodles ala funghi porcini, and I ordered the risotto made with Brunello, their famous local red. It was way over salty but I was completely pissed, and ate with abandon. We tried some of this famous Brunello and decided that our favourite was a 2000 from the north side of the hill.

Today we woke up from a lovely sleep on our nice cushy and cool bed (as compared to the cramped and hot van) and got a Vespa, and booted around on it for a while. We had a lovely lunch in a little town, cannot remember the name right now. Came home, had a siesta, and K has just returned from another scooter trip. We are trying to decide what to do tonight and a wine tour and dinner are definitely on the to-do list.

Konrad is determined to eat as much pasta as possible and drink the local red wines, so as to be satiated with a full Tuscan experience. Seeing as how we leave for France tomorrow morning, we have a lot of eating and drinking to do tonight!

Am trying to come up with a list of things learned so far on the road and this is where it is at:
1. The coffee in Germany and Poland is terrible
2. in the Czech Republic, road signs appear to be "optional"
3. the stereotype of the men lunching in beautiful little trattorias in Italy, for two hours and several courses, while playfully arguing with each other and talking loudly, is 100% true.

That is it so far. I will add to it later.

Konrad is back now and is at the Kodak place, trying to see if we can transfer the photos we have taken so far, onto a CD. We only have 85 left on the camera and with a full 8 days left, we know that will never do!!

Love to all.

Tam and Konrad

Ciao from Montalcino, Italy!

2005-06-27T07:24:00.000-07:00

Hello all! So sorry we have not been updating the blog...we have really been flitting around the continent just sort of going where the winds take us and we are finally settling down in the beautiful walled Tuscan town of Montalcino for two days. This will be home base for some much needed rest tonight and then a Vespa rental and wineries tour tomorrow.

So much to tell and I have been keeping it all in my journal so that when I get home I can just transcribe my diary entries. So many stories!!

In short though, we left from Zywiec and went to Prague -- which was simply breathtaking. And from there we went through to an unexpected stop for a day in Munich (a stop we would not recommend) for VW van repairs. (A story in itself).

Then on the road through the Dolomites and into the mountainous Italian towns of Corvara and Cortina D Ampezzo (am typing on an Italian keyboard and cannot find the damn apostrophe!). Then through to Grado on Adriatic Sea...then on to Modena and MARINELLO...to the Ferrari museum!!

That was a special day for Konrad and I will make sure to ask him to update the blog about that day when we return.

From Maranello we had what was so far the highlight of the trip. We have been attempting to stay off the autostrade, the big Italian super highway system as it is a maddening thing to attempt. Should be fast but if there is anything bottlenecking traffic, you are in hell and also, if you happen to miss your exit, which is something that happens easily, then you cannot exit easily and are stuck for some 30km more.

Anyway we were on some twisty and turny back roads and (though I will get into it more later) we came across a totally out of the way B and B. And it turned out this was their opening night, they were having a party, and we were welcomed with open arms to this great celebration with an awesome jazz band and treats like salami, pasta salad, cherries from the area and more. Wow. It was honestly like a movie.

Yesterday we were in Pisa and saw the leanng tower...my engineer travelling companion was amazed and we took lots of photos. The Pisa campground was great.

Now we are back in Tuscany in this old little town and got an apartment so we could try to sleep and catch up on rest. Apparently we are here during an uncustomarily long heat wave and at 35-plus degrees, we are feeling it! It does not cool down much at night in the bus and when we crack windows for the slightest breeze, legions of mosquitoes feast on us all night long. We have the red bumps to show for it!!

From here we taste local wines tomorrow in areas like Montepulciano (said to be the best red of Italy) and zoom around on our Vespa like the locals. Then it is on to the south of France and I guess...back towards Dusseldorf and home. Siiiigh.

Oh yeah, we also have to do laundry. We are quickly running out of clothes and I have been going commando not by choice, for a few days. Hee hee.

Love and miss you all.

Tam and Konrad

Back in Zywiec for the evening

2005-06-20T11:17:00.000-07:00

Yesterday in the late afternoon we went on a road trip to Zakopane...this is where Adam is from. Adam is a close friend of Konrad's family and is such a character that I knew we would enjoy people watching and seeing the sights there.

The drive was through small town after small town...through the mountains we went to Zakopane and as we got closer, the roofs got steeper. Adam had explained to us that this was because of all of the snow in their winters...this way it just slides to the ground.

The architecture is amazing and we have a ton of photos to show.

When we got into the small town we were already pretty tired and after deciding to stay at what was the poshest hotel there, and changing our minds and sticking to the camping, we bought a few supplies and settled in for the night.

Quite a rainy night and chilly for Konrad (he's given me the yummy mummy bag to sleep with) but we woke up to mud and sun.

It was a great day of walking down this long row of stores in the main drag of town, and looking for the elusive amazing carving...

I had thought that I was an attraction to the men in the town when I heard all this whistling, but soon realized that one of the small items available at all of these booths was a little stuffed animal that whistled when you walked by!! There went my newly invigorated sense of confidence!

The carving is a story in itself...Adam is the most amazing carver of these wooden figurines that their friends all collect. His handiwork in his own home and that of his friends is also legendary.

I have always wanted one of these carvings but have never asked him for one (and apparently Konrad did and he said he would give him one for his wedding....) so we decided to look for one today.

Frankly, none spoke to me like Adam's have in the past, so we decided to try to talk him into doing one for us when we get back!

We had a little snack (I might let Konrad give that description) and then we got a horse-drawn wagon ride through down with a real Goral. (Again something for K to elaborate on).

A lovely drive back through the country, and we are at Ela and Jan's for the evening. We were actually going to leave for Prague tonight after dinner, but we stopped in and had tea with Babcia and she was so distraught that we were going to be leaving that she twisted Konrad's arm to stay this extra day. Poor honey, he was guilted like never before but it worked!

Besides, for some reason we are both just dog tired these days and whether it is still jet lag or something else, we're happy to stay and rest.

Hope all are doing well and a happy late Father's Day to Papa!

More later - Jan and Ela have internet connection but it might be less frequent in the next little while. Off for more adventures tomorrow!!

Love T and K.

Communication breakdown...

2005-06-19T05:32:00.000-07:00

I feel sort of like I have entered a Buddhist monastery or a commune of some sort where I am allowed only limited communication. Konrad's family is so talkative and they chatter away in their language, talking or rather arguing, lovingly, about just about anything. Directions, driving, where to park, etc. are all subjects that are open to interpretation and opinion. And my, they let their opinions be known!! It's fun to not really know the words that are being said but to fully understand what they are talking about, when five people are all talking in rapid-fire Polish!

It's becoming somewhat difficult (or I am becoming impatient) to not be able to communicate though. Either Konrad, Jan or Wacek has to be present when I am with Ela or Babcia, or there is an uncomfortable silence and some funny sign language. I sort of thought it would be easier than this but I think those of us who don't speak each other's language are feeling that there is only so much than can be expressed through signs and symbols.

That and also, there is so much for all of them to talk about and catch up on that I sit very quietly (hard for me, as you all know) and just take it all in, for the most part completely unaware of the topic at hand. Sometimes though, I can figure it out...whether through certain words that I understand or that are similar to one in English or another language that I can understand, or else through the hand gestures. For instance, Konrad's absolutely side-splitting story about how he got his morotcycle license in California, is really all about the gestures in the storytelling and the body language, and I know what point he is at in the story when the listeners start laughing until they are cyring!

Sometimes a common language is really just not needed and the heart speaks all that one needs to be understood. Today we all went to the grave site of Zygmunt, the husband of Zofia (Babcia, Konrad's grandmother).

Babcia and family lit candles and then she approached the headstone. She looked at it for a while and I could see her smiling face begin to soften, and her carefree expression sort of melted away. She saddened and her mouth began to tremble a little. She shook her head a little, and then she started to cry. She turned and said something, a few sentences, and though I didn't know what exactly the words were, I sure did hear what she was saying and I found myself in tears as well.

Konrad turned to me and he also had tears running down his face.

Zygmunt was by all accounts an incredible and lovely man. He was a captain in the army and we looked at his medals and memorabilia last night, including a great notebook which detailed a holiday he and Zofia took. It chronicled every detail - general itinerary, schedule of each day, what they had for breakfast, lunch and dinner, who they met and details of what happened, like an army log. This spoke volumes about his army training and how the attention to detail and structure he learned really came through in everything else he did.

When Konrad's grandfather retired from the army, he grew bored of retirement and soon after he started to work as a sort of travelling theatre, taking films in a van with another fellow, to neighbouring villages to show people on a "movie night". He had such a soft spot in his heart for children that he couldn't bear to take their money, and so he often had crowds and no entrance fees to show for it. While he didn't necessarily make any money, he certainly endeared himself in the hearts of these kids who got to see films for free during a very poor time.

This morning I was also shown some coupons from around the 1980s, when food and cigarettes and other things were not in regular supply. Konrad explained how he and his family would take their "perhaps bag" and stand in the queue and perhaps they'd get bread, perhaps they'd get ham, perhaps they'd get nothing...they certainly never knew in advance what they'd bring home, if anything.

These coupons had areas to stamp, much like our coffee cards today. 100g, 300g, of meat and other things. The card would last the month and then when it was stamped, that was it.

Jan told me about the rations of gas. Families would be allowed only so much and it was such a valuable commodity, that he devised a clever way to get a little more. He had an old motorbike that only ran on rare occasions and was otherwise broken down. He would walk it to the pump as he was allowed 30 litres three times a month for the bike on top of the gas for the car. He would fill it up and bring it back and empty it out into a barrel. That way he got an extra 90 litres a month of gas for the car. Sometimes he sold it to other people.

I am sort of all over the place with stories and explanations but this is what I think this blog will be like while we're on the road with expensive and slow internet connections, and not much time. Good thing I am a fast typer!

One thought that I am repeatedly struck with is how amazing it is that Konrad came from here and found his way to Canada...and selfishly I think, how amazing it is that he came to Canada, to Alberta, to Edmonton, and that we found each other. Coming to his home town, home country, has really given me such a new perspective from which to consider how astounding it is that he and I were able to meet and fall in love. It really is amazing, and I appreciate it so much.

How he came to Canada and the circumstances of his childhood are a story to be shared another time, if he wants to, but it really was a journey and an adventure, and I am so blessed that it happened the way it did and that we can be in each others lives and learn so much from each other. Being here and experiencing this life, despite the difficulty in communication, reinforces in me how lucky I am.

Czesch from Zywiec, Poland!!

2005-06-18T02:12:00.000-07:00

Well here we are - hi everyone!

We're finally in Konrad's hometown...the absolutely lovely Zywiec. We are staying in the home of Konrad's aunt Ella and uncle Jan.

This town is exactly like I pictured it in my head, so beautiful with old architecture, some pre-WWI buildings and homes. Having never been to Europe, I have to say that both my imagination and the pictures, films and other information I have picked up along the way have prepared me well for what I would experience.

I haven't had any culture shock associated with visiting new places, but certainly there has been some communication issues! And already, many stories to tell!!

We were in love with our camper van from the moment we got it. We are only the second renter of it so it still has the new car smell, and everything is easy to use, including (we thought) the elctric roof...the place you pop up to sleep up top.

Yes, we thought...now it seems there is a problem with it and first there was trouble putting it up and now there is trouble putting it down!! And we sort of need to have it down when we carry on in a few days. The manual is of course, written in German!

Handily enough, Konrad's uncle is a translator and speaks German, Polish and English. So we'll get through it.

So we've driven from Dusseldorf to Zywiec already. I didn't sleep at all on the flight and Konrad only about an hour or so, so when we landed we were not as awake as we could have been if we had slept a little more.

We got a sweet BMW cab to the van rental place and then after a quick trip to Walmart to load up on water and supplies, we hit the road. We had a heck of a time getting on the road, though!! The network of freeways and roads looked like veins on the map and none were very well marked on the map. After a few hours of driving we were absolutely worn out and pulled over for a nap. I don't think I have had such a hard, deep sleep for years.

We hit the road again after that rest then got caught in a very long traffic jam and after crawling along for probably an hour, we decided to just pull off to a rest stop and call it a night.

We had been wondering earlier why there were no camp site signs on the highway, but it seems like they might just be off the road a ways, as we did come across one in this sweet little German community.

$10 got us a spot and a delicious warm shower. We shared a beer, popped the top and called it a night. We woke up about 5:00am, and then found a little bakery/cafe open.

Konrad is very very good at nonverbal communication and so he was the one to get us a great breakfast and coffee. This town was just like out of the stereotypical German picture book!

We didn't really get many pictures from the road as between concentrating on the driving and navigating, as well as sort of rushing to get here on time (Konrad's aunt and uncle were waiting for us and have postponed the start of their own holiday to host us) we didn't have any time to stop.

I did get some photos from the van as we were driving and so far my favourite sites were three castles built up on hills in Germany and then also the many many wind farm sites. The uber modern and the old and traditional juxtaposed on this green, rolling hill ladnscape is amazing.

Approaching the Polish border Konrad was very nervous...justifiably. Not that anything happened this time - we were asked to park to the side but had our passports stamped and were let through with relative ease. But his stories of what he and his family would experience trying to leave the country years ago, made me quickly understand that we had to be solemn, honest and as quiet as possible. With a jail on site, you don't want to screw around.

When we got into Poland I was surprised at the great shape of the roads - the German autobahn is just in amazing shape and is built for fast driving. The germans are an efficient, orderly lot with the only driving in the left lane to pass, and as quickly as possible. We had the van up to 160km top speed, and BMWs and Mercedes as well as Opels, Fiats and Peugots were passing us like we were at a standstill.

Konrad had said that the roads in Poland would be hideous - potholes and bumps. For the first half of the trip through Poland they were great.

Then we stopped at a roadside washroom and I did my thing. Came out, had some lunch and then we took off again. My stomach started to turn into knots, and it wasn't the road yet. We had eaten the same thing and K was fine so I couldn't figure out what was wrong with me. (Truthfully I thought it might have been cramps as I knew my monthly visitor was coming any day now). Still I thought it wise to find a washroom and when we finally did, it was getting to almost the point of no return.

I went inside the gas station, to meet a line-up of women waiting to use the one ladies washroom! My stomach had me almost in tears.

I didn't actually share this part with Konrad as I was embarassed and feeling too bad to tell the story, but in agony I tried to communicate with the women in the line to see if there was anyone in the mens room and some were German, some were Polish, but none knew what the hell I was saying. No-one said a thing when I tried the door to the mensroom, which was open.

The first part was empty but had only sinks and urinals, so I opened the next door. And then. I was met with some surprise, by a large German man, sitting on the toilet. I apologized, closing the door and backing out. By the time I got back to the line I was mortified, and near going in my pants. Plus, the line had gotten longer while I was in there!!

I was able to get through and into the washroom and felt much better, but weak, shaky and dizzy afterwards.

THEN the potholes began, and I really saw what Konrad had been talking about!!

Anyway, more about the trip later. We arrived in Konrad's little town and I love love love it here.

We were met by the lovely and sweet Ella and Jan, had a good, hard sleep and now we're just getting ready to go and see Babcia, Konrad's grandmother.

Note: it is interesting being in a house of 4 Polish-speaking people (Ella and Jan's son Vacjek is here now too) and not knowing what the heck they are talking about!

More later, folks. Hope you are all well.

Ang, I am here and will call you!!

Love you all.

And we're off!

2005-06-15T08:49:00.000-07:00

Well not quite yet, but in approximately 5 hours we will be! There is so much to do in those 5 hours that I might actually sleep on the 10+hour flight tonight too...which would be good.

Konrad also has these awesome noise-cancelling headphones which he has graciously offered to me for the flight, so I think I personally am good to go.

Everyone has been asking me in the weeks and days leading up, "So are you getting excited?" and I think I have disappointed them with a halfhearted "yeah, getting there" or "yup" - nothing too over-the-top excited.

However, with the day finally here and an end in sight to all of the niggling little tasks on the to-do list, I can finally say:

I AM EXCITED!!

Full on, ready to go.

After a trip to the bank, Chapters, post office, Shoppers Drug Mart, Mountain Equipment Co-op, and more.

:-)

Love you all.

Tam

Howdy Y'all!

2005-06-12T22:47:00.000-07:00

Still in Canada. (And Konrad in San Francisco).

We haven't hit the road yet. Or the sky, as the case may be. Yes, a 10+ hour flight awaits us on Wednesday afternoon. As I write this it is Sunday evening, too late...I should be in bed.

I am still in Vancouver and Konrad is in San Francisco. He flies here on Tuesday evening, and then we pack everything together, and leave at I think 4pm the next day.

Yee haw!

So hi, y'all. Check back in for updates.

Woo hoo!

Au revoir. (Should get used to that).

T.